South Carolina barbecue can become confusing in the best possible way. Order pork in different parts of the state and the sauce may change dramatically.

Mustard sauce

The state’s famous yellow mustard-based barbecue sauce is especially associated with central South Carolina and reflects German culinary influence in the region.

Vinegar and pepper

In parts of the state, particularly toward the east, sharper vinegar-and-pepper traditions connect South Carolina barbecue with neighboring North Carolina styles.

Tomato-based variations

Other areas use sauces with stronger tomato components, ranging from lighter blends to thicker, sweeter versions.

The pork matters first

Sauce gets the arguments, but barbecue begins with meat cooked slowly until smoke, seasoning and texture have done their work.

I would make barbecue a road-trip activity. Try it in more than one region and order the house sauce rather than insisting on the style you already know.

South Carolina’s regional differences are part of the fun. You do not need to declare a winner. Eat enough barbecue and you will probably find several approaches worth defending.

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